It is Minke Magic time again.  Divers, snorkellers and underwater photographers are all lining up to head out into the Great Barrier Reef to get up close with the Minke Whales.  This special event happens for just two months each year.  At this point it is not fully understood where the dwarf minke whales come from, or where they go to.  What is known is that the travel through the deep waters of the Coral Sea (off the continental shelf) and then move into the shallower waters around the Ribbon Reefs for what appears to be a time of socialising.  Experience a close encounter with Minke Whales is a special experience.  Watch this great video for more information.  If you wish to experience an encounter, make sure you travel with an operator that has a Minke Whale Permit.  These operators all contribute to scientific research and our knowledge of Minke Whales, in addition they have signed up to a strict code of conduct to protect the whales and ensure encounters do not adversely impact their behaviour.

This year the Cairns Underwater Film Festival (CUFF) is back and I am proud to be involved both as a board member and also a photo competition judge.  Although one look at the prize pool is enough to make me wish I was entering!  There are some incredible prizes on offer to top destinations.  The underwater photography competition requires entries to be taken in the Great Barrier Reef and Coral Sea.

Previously the festival has been run as a business by Christian Botella, however this year he has handed the running over to a team (the CUFF board) of volunteers, which Christian is still a part of.  The CUFF team then made the unanimous decision to volunteer their time and return all profit from the festival back to the community through donations to local marine conservation groups and other worthwhile causes.  Please visit the CUFF website for more information on this years festival and also the photo competition.

Philippines, PNG (again), Truk Lagoon, Coral Bay / Ningaloo (in Western Australia), Wolf Rock (near Fraser Island on Australia’s east coast), the Yongala Wreck (again), Coral Sea, Fiji, Tonga, Raja Ampat in Indonesia.  There are so many spectacular dive sites, both locally and internationally that I would love to dive and photograph.  What is you dream list?  Are you doing any this year?

Or perhpas diving and underwater photography for you is all about keeping it local?  While I love heading out to explore new areas and see the differences in coral reefs and critters all over the world, the bulk of my portfolio will always be the Great Barrier Reef and Coral Sea.   We are lucky in Cairns to have such a great marine backyard and with my underwater photography workshops getting more popular I am looking forward to sharing it with lots of people this year, along with working towards the protection of the Coral Sea.  If you would like to know more about either the workshops or how you can help establish a marine park in the Coral Sea, please get in touch.

Migaloo the white whale

Humpack whales follow hot on the heels of Minke Whales on the Great Barrier Reef, just as one season is waning the other is building into full force and we love it!  While diving on the Great Barrier Reef, getting to hear the ‘songs’ of humpback whales is a beautiful thing and sends a thrill up your spine.  Bizarre hand signals to each other follow as divers try to make each other understand…”that is a whale singing, can you you hear it”.  Often the whales sound so close you find yourself constantly looking over your shoulder for a glimpse in the blue, but they can be up to two miles away and you can still hear their beautiful songs.

One of the most famous (if not THE most famous) humpback whales is Migaloo – the White Whale.  Each year the first sighting of Migaloo is reported from NSW, ‘Migaloo has been spotted off the coast’ and we in Cairns know they are on the way.  However, this year it has been even more exciting as their have been multiple ‘white whale’ sightings.  Is it Migaloo or is it his calf?  According to the White Whale Research centre on the 27th June 2010:

“The White Whale Research Centre has received two sightings (one confirmed by photos) of a white whale from different locations with the distinct possibility we might have two white whales cruising up the east coast of Australia. In July 2008 we had reports of a white whale with black spots on its head and tail.This one, named Bahloo after an Aboriginal moon spirit, was first seen swimming off the Gold Coast. Little is known about Bahloo. However with the sighting of Fraser Island on Sunday 27th it has been confirmed it was Migaloo which therefore means the unconfirmed sighting of Cape Byron on the same day could be Bahloo.”

Migaloo was then spotted again on the 21/07/2010 off Port Douglas.  There are now reports of a sighting on Monday 2nd August off Cairns near Green Island.

Once thought to be an Albino Whale, Migaloo is for the moment he is known as a “hypo-pigmented” humpback. Migaloo was first photographed in 1991 off Byron Bay.  He was the first documented all white whale and his name was taken from the name aboriginal elders from the Hervey Bay area of Queensland used for ‘white fellas’.  In 2004 researchers from Southern Cross University were able to collect DNA from Migaloo which confirmed he was a male, but which can also be used to compare against other white whales (such as Bahloo) to check for paternity.

Because Migaloo is so readily identifiable, and has caught the attention of people around the world, sightings can be reported to the White Whale Research Centre which maintains a log.  These sightings then provide valuable insight into the migratory behaviour of humpback whales.  Migaloo is part of the east Australian humpback population, now suspected to number around 11-13,000 individuals in 2010. This population was likely around 30,000 before commercial whaling began, but was possibly as low as 104 individuals after commercial whaling on humpbacks ceased in the 1960s

The White Whale Research Centre was setup to act as a central communication point between universities, locals, the press and the public.  Its website maintains a log of ‘Migaloo’ sightings and is maintained primarily as a resource for children studying whales, or anyone who wants to know more about Migaloo.  Please visit their website for more information: http://www.migaloo.com.au

Because Migaloo is such a unique whale he has special Queensland & Commonwealth Government legislation to protect him from harassment. For this reason all vessels including Jet-skis are prohibited from approaching Migaloo no closer than 500m and Aircraft no lower then 2000 feet. The Fine for breaching this law is $16,500.00  If you are lucky enough to sight MIGALOO in the wild and can report his location please contact The White Whale Research Centre Via mobile phone on 0415 748 143 or email details and photos to sightings@migaloo.com.au

Soft coral and feather star at the Cod Hole, Ribbon Reefs, Australia

“Where’s the best diving on the Great Barrier Reef?”

This is not an easy question.  The Great Barrier Reef is over 2000km long and has 2900 reefs.  With thousands of dives on the Great Barrier Reef, in many different areas, I still hesitate at the question. Here is a round up of some of the best diving and experiences to be had:

The Ribbon Reefs offer a diverse range of diving from coral gardens (such as Flare Point, Challenger Bay and the Cod Hole) to isolated coral pinnacles with large schools of fish, macro life and ‘hollows’ which contain sharks, stonefish, octopus and more.  This area is really an underwater photographers delight; the biggest challenge is usually choosing which subject to photograph or for the SLR photographers the agonising choice of which lens wide angle or macro.  The Ribbon Reefs are a unique form of reef only found north of Cooktown.  This section of reefs is very remote and therefore only extended liveaboard trips from Cairns run by Mike Ball Dive Expeditions, Taka or Spirit of Freedom visit this region.  Nimrod Explorer and Undersea Explorer have both ceased operating.  Day trips are available from Lizard Island, but only as a guest of the resort.

Dive sites on the Ribbon Reefs include: The Cod Hole, Steve’s Bommie, Pixie’s Pinnacle, Flare Point, Challenger Bay, Lighthouse Bommie, Acropolis, Two Towers, Snake Pit and Clam Gardens.

Marine encounters can commonly include: potato cod (aka 200kg fish), turtles, sea snakes, leafy scorpionfish, pipefish, white tip sharks, schooling trevally, nudibranchs, lionfish, stonefish, wobbegongs (carpet sharks), grey reef sharks and much, much more.

Dwarf Minke Whale approaching snorkeller

The Minke Whales make a guest appearance on the Ribbon Reefs from May to August, however the heart of the season (last two weeks of June and first two weeks of July) produce the most spectacular encounters with the highest number of whales.  Interactions can include over ten whales and it is not uncommon for the whale to approaching within touching distance.  There are few experiences underwater that can match the thrill of being eyeball to eyeball with a Minke whale.

Diving with a Potato Cod at the Cod Hole

The Cod Hole diving with 200kg fish which are quite happy to approach you, swim alongside you or let you sit quietly beside them is quite something.  These fish are quite literally the same size as a human.  Some operators run feeds where you can see these normally very tranquil fish move with impressive speed, power and agility.  If you are lucky enough to do a night dive at the Cod Hole you will find the cod join you for a dive so they can use the light from your torches to hunt.

The Coral Sea actually starts where the Great Barrier Reef ends.  It was named by sailors because they kept bumping (quite unfortunately for them) into isolated coral reefs which appeared to dot this area.  We now know these as isolated oceanic mountains which raise up spectacularly from the depths to within a couple of metres of the surface.  These reefs are shaped by the strong currents and upflows that contribute to the spectacular life which you can find on them.  Osprey Reef is the most commonly dived Coral Sea reef, as it is serviced by the diving liveaboards from Cairns.  Less commonly visited are Bougainville and Shark.  Holmes and Flinders Reefs are accessed from Townsille.

The Whitsunday Islands

The Whistunday Islands would often not be included amongst the ‘best diving’ category.  The reef is fringing reef and visibility is affected by the land.  However they are an absolutely beautiful set of islands and Whitehaven Beach is consistently voted as one of the best beaches in the world.  In addition, nearby Hardy Reef (part of what has become known as the ‘Outer Reef’) does offer some good diving.  So a trip to the Whitsundays on a boat which takes in all three of these areas is a brilliant experience.

Shark dive at North Horn, Osprey Reef, Coral Sea

Shark Dive at North Horn, Osprey Reef even through the Coral Sea is no the Great Barrier Reef, I am going to include this here as to get to the Coral Sea, you must go through the Great Barrier Reef and this dive is available on dive liveaboards which also access the Great Barrier Reef.  North Horn is an amazing diving in its own right.  With spectacular walls dropping down hundreds of metres and huge soft corals that remind me of fireworks with their display of colours, form and complexity.  Add to this a large number of sharks and some tuna heads to attract them in for a close look and this is one spectacular dive experience.

Yongala Wreck is a dive that will blow you away and leave your neck sore from head swiveling.  All you will do is want to go back for more.  The wreck lies on a sandy bottom at 30m (rising to within 15m of the surface).    The abundant marine life will keep you fully occupied and the wreck almost becomes secondary.  However, it is an advanced dive and can be difficult to access as it is very weather dependent.  Yongala Dive and Adrenalin Dive both operate day trips to the wreck.

Minke Whales – Images by Xanthe Rivett

I recently had the amazing fortune to spend time in the water with a Minke Whale. While encounters like these often involve multiple whales, this particular whales was on its own.  Within minutes of entering the water the whale had approached us, at times passing close enough to touch.  As its huge eye glided past regarding us carefully, we could only imagine what it was thinking!  The interaction appeared to be fueled by a mixture of curiousity and playfulness.

I have had the good fortune to experience a few encounters with minke whales, but not for a couple of years. To be back in the water and see one, literally ‘face to face’ was a beautiful experience.  The encounter was onboard Taka Dive Expeditions..

Photographing the Minke Whales

Entering the water on snorkel is your best opportunity for photography.  Many marine animals are wary of bubbles and Minke whales are no exception.  Underwater photography of Minke Whales can be tricky as they turn up on the Great Barrier Reef during ‘Trade-wind’ season.  Strong winds can ensure a choppy sea and days maybe overcast and dark.  The whales more than make up for the not-so-pleasant weather however, when bouncing around on a choppy sea with low-light, photography can be more challenging!   Set your ISO manually so that it doesn’t automatically shoot up and cause unnecessary noise.  Be careful of your exposures too as the whales are dark, as can be the water, and you want there to be contrast between the two.  The Minke Whales also have patches of white on them which can burn out easily if overexposed, so pay attention to your highlight warning.  Finally, either take your strobes off or ensure they are turned off…you they are unnecessary and you do not want to spook the whales.

How can you experience an encounter with a Minke Whale?

Minke whales migrate to the northern or ‘Ribbon Reef’ section of the Great Barrier Reef each year.  They cruise through the Coral Sea and enter the Great Barrier Reef through deep channels or breaks in the ribbon-like reefs which give this area its name.  Mike Ball Dive Expeditions, Taka and Spirit of Freedom all operate diving liveaboards in this area, and from which you may have the opportunity to see whales.  Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Taka offer dedicated Minke Whale expeditions during peak season.  Day trips, while they advertise minke whales, are very unlikely to have a high chance of success to see the whales.  Your best opportunity is to join a liveaboard for the last two weeks of June or first two weeks of July and your best chance to get up close to the whales is to be on snorkel.

Of the three dive liveaboards I would recommend:

1) Mike Ball Dive Expeditions first as it is the best quality liveaboard, they run dedicated minke whale expeditions, have experienced and knowledgeable crew and have been very strong supporters of Minke Whale researchers from James Cook University.  In addition their fly/dive itineraries maximise time at dive sites which gives you more opportunity to spend time with the whales.  The downside is the price as they are the best quality liveaboard operator on the Great Barrier Reef (as evidenced by the chocolate they put on your pillow after your daily cabin service) this may not suit everyone’s budget.

2) Taka (operated by Deep Sea Divers Den), their Friday trip departs for the Coral Sea and Ribbon Reefs which means that you have the opportunity to experience the Ribon Reefs, Coral Sea and Minke Whales!  This is an amazing trifecta.  However in a short trip you will have limited time to experience each which can be a compromise.  Their Tuesday trip stays on the Ribbon Reefs which maxmises your opportunity.  The crew are more laid-back and with a different price point to Mike Ball Dive Expeditions there is a different level of boat, food and customer service.  They also have to drive the boat to and from Cairns in one trip which means more travel time.  However the atmosphere is fun and is more budget-friendly.

3) Spirit of Freedom.  They do not have a minke whale permit and have not supported the minke whale research in the past, but as a last resort this is your third option.  I do strongly object to the fact that they do not have a permit, I believe they should contribute to the development of sustainable tourism practices rather than just take advantage of others doing the work for them.

Sustainable tourism and Minke whales.  Researchers from James Cook University, along with liveaboard operators (such as Undersea Explorer which is sadly closed now) worked together over many years to learn more about these beautiful animals and their interaction with dive boats.  What makes these interactions special is that the whales approach the boats.  In many areas of the world where whale tourism is conducted the boats seek out the whales.  Dive operators on the Ribbon Reefs simply tie up at one of their normal dive sites and the whales seek out the interaction.  This also means that if you are a keen diver you can enjoy a top dive while waiting for the whales rather than sitting around on deck.

To ensure that the interactions remain positive for humans and whales alike, a code of practice has been developed.

Click to download full copy of the pdf

The sad news is that Minke Whales are one of the species of whales still hunted. It hurts to think that this beautiful animal could be hauled up onto the deck of a factory ship next summer and sold for meat.

Types of Dive Trips

The Great Barrier Reef is in one word ‘huge’.  It covers around 20,000sq.km of reef surface and is only slightly smaller than Germany.  That is a lot of diving.  More than any of us will do in one lifetime.  How do you choose where to go diving between the 2900 reefs and 940 islands?

Geography of the Great Barrier Reef

Starting at the town 1770 (where the Great Barrier Reef is youngest and named by Captain Cook after the year he landed there) and heading north 2000km to the tip of Queensland, Australia (where the Great Barrier Reef is oldest) there are several main port towns where you can access the Great Barrier Reef: 1770, Bundaberg,  Mackay, Airlie Beach, Townsville, Cairns and Cooktown.
Most of the Great Barrier Reef is formed on the continental shelf, once the shelf drops away this is what most people consider the ‘Coral Sea’.  The Coral Sea was named because of the isolated reefs that rise up from the deep ocean and caused significant issues for early maritime shipping in Australia’s waters.  It was also home to the ‘Battle of the Coral Sea’ in the 2nd World War.
Of the reefs along the Great Barrier Reef there are several types: fringing reefs, ribbon reefs, platform reefs and deltaic reefs.
In the Coral Sea reefs are ‘oceanic sea mounts’ huge underwater mountains which can rise from over a 1000m deep to the sea surface.
Fringing Reefs are adjacent to the mainland or an island (which is different to a coral cay).  This can mean there is a beach which you can dive or snorkel off, but it can also mean slightly reduced visibility due to the run-off from land.  These include the reefs of the Whitsunday Islands.
Ribbon Reefs are found only in the northern (oldest) section of the Great Barrier Reef.  They run along the very edge of the continental shelf and benefit from being flushed by tides with the clear waters of the Coral Sea.   Due to their remoteness on a few dive operators visit the Ribbon Reefs which are all north of Port Douglas.
Platform reefs are some of the most commonly dived.  They can be 3-10km long and often have a lagoon in the centre and sometimes also have a sand cay (which can overtime stabilise to the point of having vegetation on it like Low Isles or Green Island).
Coral Sea Reefs include Osprey Reef, Bougainville Reef, Flinders, Holmes, Wreck Reef and Lihou.  Many are too remote for diving operators to visit.

Great Barrier Reef Marine Life and Seasons

o    Minke Whales – May to August (prime season: Jun and July)
o    Humpback Whales – Jun – September (prime season varies along the coast)
o    Turtle Nesting and Hatching – Nov to March
o    Coral Spawning – varies each year depending on moon phases but generally November on outer reefs.

Diving Conditions and Weather

Weather!  Where do you start?  Okay, firstly no one controls it.  Mother Nature is amazing, spectacular, powerful and uncontrollable (although we do keep trying).  Here is my weather forecast for your trip: sunny with a chance of wind, clouds and rain.  I can very easily say some of my best and most memorable trips have been in very poor weather conditions.  We still went diving, the sea was still wet, the coral and fish were still amazing and we saw incredible things we would not have seen if we stayed home or chose to wait for a ‘nice day’.  We would have lost that opportunity and missed those incredible moments.